Northbound
Circling through mythic beauty:
There is no region in the North quite like the Nass Valley, and that’s saying something because everything here is beautiful. Easily driven in a day, a visit to the Nisga’a lands is something you will never forget.
From Terrace, take Kalum Lake Drive/Nisga’a Highway (about 3 km west of the Visitor InfoCentre on Hwy 16). Be prepared for gorgeous scenery immediately.
On a windless day, spectacular Kitsumkalum Lake will be a glimmering mirror reflecting the surrounding mountains beside you as you drive. At the little community of Rosswood, watch for the “peeing” tree, and Wessich Falls (just a 15-minute hike away).
Before you know it, you’ll be at Sii Tax (Lava Lake). The little picnic site there is definitely worth the stop; it’s fascinating to see a lake formed entirely by lava rock—very cool!
Driving through the lava fields is a haunting experience. The destruction that the molten flow caused—killing people, demolishing villages, wiping out vegetation, rerouting waterways, and burning through forests—is still, 250 plus years later, overtly obvious.
However, the beds are also eerily beautiful. Water pools in lava bowls. Wild flowers pushing through every available crack, and the odd tree that has done the same, are inspiring in their tenacity, and stand out in contrast to the spared surroundings which are lavishly green and crazily alive.
Great views abound; watch for Beaupre and Vetter Falls, especially.
When you come to the fork in the road, go left (west) for the villages of Gitwinksihlkw (Canyon City), Laxgalts’ap (Greenville), and Gingolx. Sadly, this is when you have to get choosy about what you’re going to see, unless you book a room at one of the Bed & Breakfasts or lodges available in the area. If that’s your plan, do so in advance; spaces are limited. If not, you’ll still see plenty. Besides, you can always return to explore more.
Before you get to Gitwinksihlkw, watch for a sign on the right announcing Tree Mould Trail. A quick five-minute jaunt will reveal a perfect cylindrical tube created when a tree, trapped in lava, rotted entirely away. You can feel and see impressions left by the long-gone tree’s bark.
If the season’s right, check out the fish wheel on the way into Gitwinksihlkw, and definitely walk the amazing suspension bridge. There are natural hot springs 13 km past Gitwinksihlkw, but they’re unmarked—perhaps a worthy treasure hunt!
From Laxgalts’ap to Gingolx, be prepared to drive slowly. The paved highway is great (despite some steep hills), but the surrounding scenery is so amazing that you will want time to soak it in. Keep your eyes open for an abundance of eagles, huge ravens, bears and ocean.
When you see the sign announcing Gingolx, seafood capitol of the Nass, count yourself as one of the very privileged few in the world to see this picturesque, heritage town. Until three years ago, there was no road access into Gingolx. Visit their government docks, walk the seawall, trek the waterfront trail, admire meaningful totems and other artwork, and much more.
Gingolx is also home to Crabfest, a two-day festival with great music (big names!), cultural events, fantastic food, workshops, and more. This year’s Crabfest is June 30th and July 1st. Check out www.crabfest.com for more details. (Also see Festival Listings article, in this issue, for more details.)
Leaving Gingolx, you’ll find that the scenery is just as captivating in reverse. Back at the fork in the road, stay to the left to go into the heart of the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Park and Sii Ayans (New Aiyansh), the valley’s largest centre. Before driving over the bridge and turning right into the village, stop at the rest area and admire the gorgeous Tseax River.
In each of the four communities, there are beautiful old churches, lovely new buildings, and a wealth of history. Be prepared for great, laid-back hospitality. Local residents are very willing to help you enjoy their region, so feel free to ask questions and directions.
Returning to Terrace, you can drive back the way you came or take the “Cranberry Connector” to Cranberry Junction on Highway 37, where you turn right (south) for Kitwanga; then right again (west) back to Terrace, bringing your day full circle. However, the Cranberry Connector is a 51 km forestry road and can be very rough and pot-holed—if you’re in a rental vehicle, a small car or just don’t like bumps, stick to the paved Nisga’a Highway.
Bring lunch (there aren’t a lot of restaurants), a camera, and your sense of wonder. Circling through the Nass Valley’s mythic beauty will awe you and create a deep feeling of connection to the region’s rich history and future.
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